A Delicious Dalliance With Pat McGarry & Captain H Buckmaster of Mayfair.
It is the last week in January and the excesses and overindulgences of the feasting festive season are fast becoming a distant memory. However, I am currently suffering on a self-imposed alcohol ban from Monday to Thursday. And having more time on my hands, I often find myself ruminating on – yes, you’ve guessed it – alcohol. In all its wonderful forms.
Don’t get me wrong. I believe in the mantra that abstinence is a great thing for both health, body and mind. But boozy research for Friday, Saturday and Sunday is not such a bad thing. Plus it focuses my inquisitive, creative nature.
Sounds like waffle I know, but I’m sticking to it!
So, over Christmas, my wife and I consumed a fair amount of champagne with orange juice – which is a traditional pairing for ‘Bucks Fizz’. We always enjoy a glass or two around that time of the year and yet, I have always felt it lacked a certain something.
Flashback to a couple of years previous, I was given Hawksmoor At Home as a Christmas present and since then it has become a permanent feature in our kitchen. As should be the case with all decent recipe books, the pages are now well-thumbed and covered in splashes of various ingredients. Best of all though, it has completely removed my fear of beef. I have always been terrified of ruining hideously expensive cuts of flesh, when attempting to formulate a delicious meal. I now know how to cook beef well and thoroughly enjoy the process along the way.
You can imagine my joy then, when approaching the rear of this delicious tome for the first time, I discovered a whole section on cocktails! The last time I had a little look was halfway through last week, to take the sting out of a hard day’s slog.
And lo, there it was. Sitting patiently, waiting for me to find it.
An original recipe for Bucks Fizz, created by maverick barman of the Roaring 1920’s – Pat McGarry. This was the man who ran the bar and ran the show at Captain H Buckmaster’s Buck’s Club, in Mayfair. The influence of this gentleman’s club should not be understated. Opening after the First World War ended, it set a new standard in the art of cocktail making, with an emphasis on innovation and exuberance. This much I knew. However, I was still surprised to read that the original recipe contained Gin. As well as Luxardo Maraschino – a ridiculously tasty, sour cherry liqueur. Once I put the book down, I knew something had to be done. I had to make the damn thing and fast!
Because you know, the weekend was approaching.

Tracking down a bottle of this Italian magic can be tricky though. But I own a business in Shenfield, in Essex – and my neighbour and good friend Nish just happens to be a wine merchant and local purveyor of fine alcoholic produce. So of course, he had a bottle of Luxardo tucked up his sleeve and after perusing the recipe with me, he suggested we try a drop of Charles Heidsieck Champagne for the experiment.
I’ve always pretty much stuck to red wine, and it has to be said that my journey into white (especially champagne) is definitely in its infancy.
However, Nish has directed me over the course of the last couple of years, towards some absolutely cracking whites – and this champagne been added to the ever growing list. It is light, delicate and super smooth. Not too dry at all in fact.
I hate it when you drink champagne that gives you instant heartburn and makes you pull a face like you’re sucking on a lemon!
Armed with all the right tools, I made it on Sunday and the final result was a thing of beauty. A massive improvement on the standard pairing, which can be cloying and oversweet. Surprisingly the gin is almost untraceable and it does obviously depend on what brand you go for. But the botanicals in Berry Bros London London gin definitely lent a fresh, almost floral taste to the mix. And the Luxardo Maraschino, although the smallest measure in this cocktail, positively sings out, delivering just the right edge of tartness and complexity.
Yep, no doubt even old Bertie Wooster wouldn’t be able to tell the difference with this Bucks Fizz.
Cin cin old bean!

Ingredients:
FOR 1 CHAMPAGNE FLUTE
(just multiply if you want to make a jug)
7.5ml good gin, such as Beefeater, frozen
2.5ml Luxardo Maraschino
60ml freshly squeezed orange juice, chilled
60ml chapmagne, chilled
The method:
To stop the drink from fizzing all over the place, pour the frozen gin, maraschino and orange juice into a mixing glass. Add half the champagne, stir briefly (this prevents the drink from overflowing) and pour carefully into a tall champagne flute, topping up with the remainder of the champagne before serving.
Or if making in bulk, mix everything in a jug and pour carefully.
